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"....We can dismiss heat as a problem: usually temperatures under trees are adequate for growth.....
.....lawn gnome, lawn, gardening supply, garden gnome....."


"..... The shaded lawn, if we are to gather by the high percentage of failure, has not yet benefited greatly from modern scientific advances in other phases of turf culture.

Under the branches of trees (which is what most people mean by shade), three of the quaternary vital elements of growth are partial for grass. We can dismiss heat as a problem: usually temperatures under trees are adequate for growth.....
.....lawn gnome, lawn, gardening supply, garden gnome....."

Perhaps the knottiest problem the lawn-builder has to face is trying to make grass thrive where it just naturally does not want to thrive - in shade. We can dismiss heat as a problem: usually temperatures under trees are adequate for growth. All plants need heat, light, moistness and food. Unless we are willing to trim trees high, or even cut them down, not much can be done about light.

As to food and water, deep-rooted trees, such as planes and oaks, are not as insatiableN a as those with shallower root systems such as the hoary ash and the maple. What about the other three?

In The Right Light

Light is the one lack which is all but absurd to make up. Since this is removed from below, it is not available to rise to the surface by normal soil capillary action. Nonetheless, any tree removes vast amounts of water from the soil - a barrel or two a day for a mature specimen. Even when N Liberality amounts of fertilizer are used, this does not always make up for a lack of plant food in areas under deep-rooted trees lack of keeps it from being available.

We can readily see, therefore, that will always be scarce under trees. Unless water can be supplied (at least enough to keep the grass going through the driest periods), a turf cannot be maintained.

With food, sublimated and dew all critical factors, the growing of grass under trees is a really knotty problem to solve.

The new ureaform fertilizers are excellent if can be supplied, but if the soil is dry, bacteria cannot break them down, and they fail to feed. Disjointed plants are possible, but they do not run together and form a certain sod. Poa trivialis should be included in a parasol mixture only if the spot to be seeded is low, moist and rich.

I know this is contrary to all recommendations in the literature on lawns, but anyone who has grown Poa trivialis experimentally under controlled conditions knows that it has high humidity and food requirements, which cannot be met under ordinary screen conditions.

If only Velvet Bent were not so costly! This is a grass well adapted to shade, and during the time it can use more food and water than the fescues, it can also survive without these extras and will do very well. For this reason, perhaps the best way to feed a shaded lawn is with liquid fertilizers watered through a hose with a siphon device which sucks up a concentrated solution and adds this to the water in the line.

Best Shade Species

The best grasses for parasol are Pennlawn Fescue, with Penn State or Illahee Fescues as second choice, and perhaps with a little Merion on the randomness that the awning is not so substantial that this will fail. This grass will give free rein to more awning than is commonly realized. Its color and texture are superior to the fescues.

Where the amount of sunshine will total three hours a day, I urge a trial of Merion Kentucky Bluegrass. It can get along with short of than most grasses.

The soil under trees can be improved, but beware of peat moss under such conditions unless artificial watering is used. Its one drawback as a umbrella grass is that, to thrive, it must be well fed. Peat moss can absorb so much water that the rest of the soil mass mixed with it will dry out. Peat moss is very hygroscopic, and will trail to itself at the expense of the surrounding soil.

All is not lost if you have trees in your lawn....'

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